Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now...

[ethanol-smart]

Following my problems here:
http://www.smartmaniacs.co.uk/showth...p-seems-dead-(

I after my CH-restoration I was trying to get all air out from the cooling system and when Im waiting with front of the car in an uphill for bubbles to come in the expansion tank with the engine on idle, it become up to 4 blobs and radiator fan starts.
No problem, some rewing, and another bunch of bubbles comes out and I fill some more water in, and the temp goes down to 3 blobs again.
Now to the problem, after some 3 minutes, the engine just stops.
Impossible to re-start, starter only turns around the engine. No lamps lit.
After some 20 minutes of cool down, all is OK again, and cars runs perfectly.
But again the same story after some 10 minutes of total driving.

I replaced the fuel filter, installed an extra lead for the fuelpump so I never have to taka away the seat again if the fuse or relay for the pump puts me or my wife stranded somewhere in the midddle of nowhere... What were they thinking of when they placed such important electrics under a seat...

Anyway, fuel is coming when I run the pump, and it is making flushing noise in the hoses and pressure regulator.
I disconnected the feeding to the fuel rail and there comes strong flow when I run the pump.
But, engine is dead..until it have cooled down.

I tried to inject some startgas through the connection for tank ventilation after the throttle, and then it runs some second o two, so there are sparks at least.

So, engine have both fuel and spark, but refuses when hot.
What can it be?

I have replaced the CH-gasket, inlet(used) and exhaust(new Garret) manifolds a Silcion TIC from Forge and increased the compression. Starts and runs strong and even, when it runs.

Seems to be temperature related, but so far it always died in an uphill. Impossible to restart also on flat after that. (Filled more fuel in too)


The only uncertainty have still have about the work is that I have a green, one pole, flat connector in the area of the crank angle detector, where should it connect...

Please give me you best guess....!

[heinkeljb]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

I had similar symptoms with my car, turned out to be the crank position sensor.

You can get them from £20 odd to £100 odd depending on where you buy from in the UK.

John

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

I had similar symptoms with my car, turned out to be the crank position sensor.

You can get them from £20 odd to £100 odd depending on where you buy from in the UK.

John

But wouldnt the sparks shut down too then?
Now only the injectors are killed. (Will measure the voltage to them soon)

[heinkeljb]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

Where on the engine are you locating the green connector? Look at the engine from the back of the car and describe where the connector is.

If it is towards the front of the car between the engine and the bulkhead, then maybe it is the connector for the air conditioning pump.

The crank shaft sensor is the one under the throttle body on to the back of the clutch bell housing.

John

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

Where on the engine are you locating the green connector? Look at the engine from the back of the car and describe where the connector is.

If it is towards the front of the car between the engine and the bulkhead, then maybe it is the connector for the air conditioning pump.

The crank shaft sensor is the one under the throttle body on to the back of the clutch bell housing.

John

Its quite close to the CPS, I know where it is. It could connect to it if it had such connector length-wise. I have no AC.
I have a small memory some months ago, that it was not connected in the first place, but Im not sure...

[heinkeljb]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

When my car did the same, I ran MBSTAR diagnostics and never found any codes - if you get a misfire, you get a code.
Possibly, the trigger in to the ECU is not at the RIGHT time, but enough to make a spark at nearly the right time to get the engine to fire if you use a VERY VERY flammable gas like EasyStart, but not enough to fire petrol / air mixture.


John

[heinkeljb]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

Crank sensor connection is NOT a single GREEN connector, it is a two wire affair with a weather proof connection.

John

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

When my car did the same, I ran MBSTAR diagnostics and never found any codes - if you get a misfire, you get a code.
Possibly, the trigger in to the ECU is not at the RIGHT time, but enough to make a spark at nearly the right time to get the engine to fire if you use a VERY VERY flammable gas like EasyStart, but not enough to fire petrol / air mixture.


John

Good to hear, I have some issues with MBstar, didnt get it to work yet
Yes, maybe its the CPS then. Only funny that it turns up now and not before when I overheated the engine..
But maybe the overheating made some damage to the CPS..which turns up now.
Hmmmm....

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

Crank sensor connection is NOT a single GREEN connector, it is a two wire affair with a weather proof connection.

John

I know, and the CPS is connected correctly, engine runs fine, when cold..

[heinkeljb]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

So did mine, until it warmed up! Then at random times and moments, the engine would stop and not allow you to start until some random time afterwards,. Presumably when it had cooled down to some point each time, but as I did not have a thermometer I could put on the crank case near the CPS to measure the temperature when it worked and when it did not..... I can't tell you what those values were.

John

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

So did mine, until it warmed up! Then at random times and moments, the engine would stop and not allow you to start until some random time afterwards,. Presumably when it had cooled down to some point each time, but as I did not have a thermometer I could put on the crank case near the CPS to measure the temperature when it worked and when it did not..... I can't tell you what those values were.

John

Hmm, if like other Mercedes CPS-sensor, its a simple coil, and in someway it is then shorting internally, or breaking.
Should be possible to detect easily when it is "bad" then.
Nobody did that?

I found now that its the same sensor that Mercedes have in more or less ALL cars:
http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/Pa...1210170&s_vid=
I have two of them myself in my yard...end they never failed so far.
Is the temperature in a Smart too much for them maybe?

[heinkeljb]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

At £20, I couldn't be bothered! If I was going to go as far as getting access to the connector for it, it was just as easy to put a new one in...

John

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

At £20, I couldn't be bothered! If I was going to go as far as getting access to the connector for it, it was just as easy to put a new one in...

John

Ofcourse, but if its not the fault, and I only spend 5 days to get a new one, its like waste of time...isnt it?
I can also try to change the sparkplugs...at least I have a new set at home...

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

It seems to be the CPS-sensor.
I connected my PC-oscilloscope to the two yellow, twinned cables where they are more easy accessible, in the wiring loom, near the airfilter.
When engine starts fine cold and runs until warm, there is a nice sinus curve, interrupted every 60th wave by a longer wave, and another 60 waves, must be the cps-signal.
When the engine get around 3 blobs, it shuts down and is impossble to start, I missed the exact moment, but now there is no signal at all anymore.
Just a line in the scope.
I waited for it to cool down, looked on the scope while cranking, and there it was again, the correct signal, and the engine started and ran fine again.

So, without take the intercooler and stuff out, I managed to diagnose the sensor in about 5 minutes.

Now to a new question...
Here, I can see that there are at least two differetn sensors, that both are said to fit a YM 2000 42, City Coupe..:
http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/Pa...nkshaft sensor
Without taking the car apart, is it possioble to know which one I have, or do they actually fit both?
Hmmmm...
The more expensive Merc part (seems to sit in a lot of Merc, including my own AMGC36), Part Code 0261210141 maybe is a better quality, and therefore a better choise...?
Part Code PDTS0354 is almost 50£ cheaper..?

Are there any real difference between them?

[ethanol-smart]

Re: Engine dies when becomes warm :-( , dont want more training by walking home now.

Hmm, is the cheaper one the same as this?:
http://www.smart-stuff.co.uk/gearbox...nsor-774-p.asp
Where is this sensor located, and what is it for..?